On the thirteenth day, the moment finally arrived: we made the last preparations for the summit attempt. Teams around us were either preparing or had already begun ascending, with the first ones already on the so-called Autobahn. We were among the last to depart, just ahead of a group of marines.
The Autobahn turned out to be a prepared path, ending at the Denali Pass, beyond which the extensive Harper Glacier was shining under the sun.
The climb was incredibly challenging, the hardest of any mountain I’d ever tackled. It was clear from the expressions of others that it was not easy for them either.
My main problem was a sudden stomach ache; I desperately needed to relieve myself. With the next fart, everything would come out!
I couldn’t stand it any longer and had to poo in the freezing cold, at such an altitude, without anything to wipe with because I hadn’t expected to need it on the summit day. Typically, in the mountains, I hold it in or don’t feel the need to go to the toilet at all.
I felt better afterward, and walking became somewhat easier, but it was still unpleasant. This entire experience was dirty so to say.
After several hours of grueling climbing along the glacier’s edge, we finally saw the summit and people on it. The road ahead seemed endless, though we were at the foot of the last steep ascent.
The climb to the summit was breathtaking, with views of the snow-white glaciers below, the gray-brown landscape beyond the ridges, and the deep blue sky. The sheer beauty helped propel us higher, toward the summit, separated from us by a narrow snow bridge.
At the top, we unfurled our rainbow flags. I also raised the Kyrgyz flag. Despite living abroad for a long time, I maintain strong ties to my homeland. I hold two important identities: Kyrgyz and gay, which some Kyrgyz people view as incompatible. Thus, it is crucial for me to display both flags together to show that we exist and fight for our visibility despite the persecution, hatred, and violence against us. The bullying of LGBTIQ individuals in Kyrgyzstan, and elsewhere, only strengthens us. We remain invisible in many countries, but we are numerous and present even in the most inaccessible places.
However, the most significant part of the day was proposing to Chris, my boyfriend. This is the longest relationship of my life, and the moment had come to propose to this wonderful person who has given me so much joy, who supports me through tough times, who cares for me, and with whom I can be my true self. It was a magical moment—not only to conquer this difficult peak together, to celebrate another victory, and see his tears and shouts of happiness—but also to ask him to marry me and to realize we were now doubly happy.
After this wonderful moment full of tears and joy I immediately told Chris that we hadn’t truly conquered the summit until we descended safely. After spending some time at the top, we began the long and exhausting descent to the upper camp, reaching the tents by sunset. I passed out as soon as I lay down in my sleeping bag even with my cold feet and my clothes covered in ice. But I didn’t care; I was exhausted and needed sleep after such a challenging and emotional day.
